Kyosho Scorpion 1/10th 2WD Electric Racing Buggy 2014 Retro Kit
Over the years I’ve had a fair few Kyosho ‘vehicles’ – the word ‘cars’ doesn’t cover their diversity! My first post-sabbatical RC was an Inferno DX which was used as a beach basher for several years. Following that; A couple of their ‘ATV Quad Rider’s’ – a ¼ scale quad bike with double wishbone front suspension and a chain-driven live rear axle, these were available in Nitro and Electric variants, I managed to get one of each. ‘Racing Kart’ – another ¼ scale, this time a nitro go-kart with a steering-animated driver, a ‘Hang-On Rider’ 1/8th scale motorbike, Loads of ‘Blizzard’ variants – a 1/10th snow-plough both nitro and electric, as well as the ‘Heavy Metal Monster Tank’ version with a Ford van body shell, and then the ‘Rock Force’ crawler – an ill-fated venture into worm-gear axles just as everyone else was switching to 50+ turn motors and getting the Axial bug. In fact, the one section of the Kyosho wheeled vehicles I’ve never owned is one of their electric buggies! But never fear, that’s about to change with the arrival on my doorstep of the Scorpion...
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Up until now, Kyosho haven’t really gone in for the re-releases – The Blizzard had been re-released a while back, but with no memorable fanfare or announcement, they were just available again, all of a sudden. Not to be confused with the ninth scale Scorpion XXL this version, also referred to as the Scorpion 2014, is a re-release/reworking of the 1982 Scorpion. Whilst it bears a striking resemblance to the original, the 2014 has many improvements and updates including; The trailing arms are now made from “6061T6 forged aluminium” for strength and durability and Americans – For the English, they’re aluminium! The redesigned die-cast gearbox now includes a pre-assembled gear differential and the transmission’s protected by a slipper clutch (ball diff is optional extra), 48dp gears, Hex head screws, and a plastic driver helmet replaces Lexan version!
Back in the day I never went for Kyosho as the painting of lexan shells was a bit daunting, so always ended up with Tamiyas – I was more used to Humbrol enamels and a paint brush. Nowadays, the thought of painting a hard shell really doesn’t appeal, especially with my lack of patience with regard to drying times – If I can’t put stickers on in 20 minutes, I don’t wanna play no more. Unlike most of my previous Kyoshos, the Scorpion is a kit. Removing the box lid, the inside is immediately ‘vintage’ – Blister packing, cardboard dividers, parts boxes – this is proper re-release material. After the dewy-eyed reminiscence period was over (milliseconds) the Stanley knife went into desecration mode. Moments later, the garage was littered with the remains of blister packs, dividers and parts boxes.
The majority of the metal hardware is in parts bags, A, B, C etc. but the plastic parts are in a bag marked ‘Plastic Bag’ – wasn’t sure if the label was for the bag or the contents, but I didn’t feel it necessary to confirm this with Kyosho, they were probably busy with other stuff anyway. The manual is clear and easy to read, with an exploded view of the chassis toward the back and plenty of room for notes. There’s also ‘service’ diagrams for the diff, shocks and the gearbox, the latter including the stock setting for the slipper (Nut flush with shaft end). Kyosho have also included a catalogue of Option Parts (hop-ups) including hardened chassis rails, UJ drive shafts, carbon fibre shock towers, chassis braces etc. There’s even an LED light set and spotlamp bucket set should you want to swap out the roll cage for one with lamp mounts.
The decal sheet has pre-cut decals but, as with most re-release kits nowadays, lacks any ‘real’ sponsor logos – The ’82 original was sponsored by Accel, K&N, Bilstein etc. and, interestingly, Bridgestone tyres – the 2014 sports Goodyear’s! Instead of supplying dodgy fake sponsor logos though, Kyosho have filled the spaces on the decal sheet with various Kyosho, Scorpion and Anniversary logos. Shock’s N Rails Starting the build, the first step is attaching the shock mounts to the chassis rails. Because the rails are bent up at the front, there’s a slight swelling at the bend so the shock mounts don’t sit flush to the rails. Although there’s no suggestion to do it, I filed the swells down on the outside faces of the rails – if filing the rails isn’t an option, I daresay a couple of M3 washers against the rails would space the mounts away from the swells. Most of this build is metal into metal – The manual doesn’t suggest threadlock is used much, but I applied it everywhere a screw went into aluminium or steel.
The servo saver is step 2 – once the ballstuds are in place, the saver must be assembled with a circlip, whilst compressing the saver-spring. The ball studs on the servo-saver (and most other places on the chassis) need spacing ‘manually’ – in this case no thread should protrude from the lower nut Took a couple of goes but it’s doable – nice big, easy to find E-clip is supplied – just as well! To add rigidity to the ladder rails, a number of aluminium-plate braces are used – one at the front for the servo-saver mount and two at the back for gearbox and swing arm placement.
The servo saver plate also serves as a brace for the front suspension hinge-pin. The ends of the pin are bent up so rotating the shaft forward or back alters the caster angle – alignment markings are laser-etched onto the hinge pin which line up with an index mark cast into the pillow block/clamp block The partially assembled gearbox already contains the slipper and idler gears but the ball diff and supporting ball races must be added. The Old ‘Drive Ratio Debate’ The aluminium rear shock tower screws to the front of the gearbox, and a top plate seals the gearbox. There are two options for drive ratio; 6.9:1 as per manual; 31t pinion and 38t spur or 8.3:1 with supplied, optional 28t pinion and 41t spur. The slipper tension was preset and worked fine out in the dirt. The transmission’s protected by a plastic cover, held in place with a single body-clip although the cover would need removing to adjust the slipper. The gearbox and motor are protected by an old-skool ‘tubular’ plastic cage and an aluminium roll bar.
To read the full review grab a back issue of the December 2014 RRCi Here
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